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Ace Hotel Kyoto Review, Japan

Writer Andrew Walker

Instead of competing with Kyoto’s legendary culinary reputation, Ace is wisely home to three distinctly non-Japanese restaurants. There is Mr Maurice’s Italian – buzzy and intimate, with silk-screen panels and a rooftop terrace – run by US chef Marc Vetri. The menu offers a modern-day take on Italian comfort food: pork chop parmesan; beet plin with ravioli; and Kyoto pizza, with cherry blossom and shiso. It’s also the setting for breakfast (grab a rooftop table if the weather is good): guests can choose from a range of menus, including Continental, American and Californian (which includes delicious avocado on sourdough, with eggs and smoked salmon) plus Ã  la carte dishes.

Meanwhile, it’s all about tacos in Piopiko Bar and Lounge, a space masterminded by Wes Avila, the chef behind LA’s Guerilla Tacos. Here, in a rich setting (curved ocean blue ceiling, terrazzo tabletops, a bar of Californian red wood, indigo washi panel walls and a shiny cooper DJ booth) an array of Mexican fare with hints of Japan is served up: favourites include octopus quesadilla, fried fish tacos and scallop tostado with creamy uni sea urchin.

Husband-and-wife Portland duo Naomi Pomeroy and Kyle Linden Webster are behind the still unnamed third restaurant, a signature all-day dining spot, housed in an exquisite double-height space with vast lanterns, Art Deco murals and serene garden views. It will serve up classic US fare using local ingredients – such as smoked wagyu pastrami eggs Benedict – from breakfast to dinner.

Back in the lobby, Portland roastery Stumptown – likely to become popular local hotspot – serves up signature coffees throughout the day (the cookies with a touch of Kyoto spice are also delicious).