ASIANOW - City Guide - Bangkok

Aside from those countless ramshackle food stalls selling spicy treats around the clock, Bangkok is full of restaurants offering the best cuisine from every region on the map. You're apt to find restaurants offering Indonesian rijstaffel, Indian malai kofta, Hungarian goulash, Mexican flan and even Wiener schnitzel served in a biergarten.

Diversity aside, however, you'll miss the boat to this culinary port if you don't taste the local specialties. Most people agree that eating Thai food is one of the more sensual dining experiences. Be sure to try the sweet gaeng kiew wan (green curry) or tom yam kung (a sour and spicy soup with prawns), local favorites. Those with mild palates beware of anything described by the term preek (it means it'll be fiery hot). Generally, any Thai food is going to seem hot by Western standards, so be sure to tell the chef you want it mai pet if you prefer a gentler experience!

Expect to pay within these general guidelines, based on the cost of a dinner for one and not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than 250 baht; $$ = 250baht-500 baht; $$$ = 500baht-1,250 baht; and $$$$ = more than 1,250 baht.

sala rim naam

Probably the best Thai restaurant in the whole country. Owned by the Oriental Hotel, this exquisitely furnished traditional Thai pavilion sits across the river from it. Diners arrive by private boat. The dinner show starts at 8:30 pm and features traditional dance and theater. Daily 1-2 pm and 7-11 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$$. Major credit cards. 48 Oriental Ave., phone 236-0400.

baan khanitha

A quaint, old house with gardens in a quiet location. Royal (refined) Thai cuisine and regional dishes, including green curry with coconut tips. Daily 11:30 am-2 pm and 6:30-11 pm. Reservations recommended for dinner Saturday and Sunday. $$$. Major credit cards. On the east side of Bangkok, Sukhumvit Road, Soi 23, phone 258-4181.

harmonique

This is like dining in someone's antique-strewn home. Very popular for excellent Thai cuisine, eaten indoors or in the courtyard. Sample some of the "dishes from the past" and the homemade ice cream. Reservations advised. Open daily 10 am-10 pm. Reservations advised. $$. 22 Charoen Krung Rd., Soi 39 (near the GPO), phone 237-8175.

spasso

Known for its Italian food. However, better known because it's the hip destination of the more agile members of the hi-so (from English "high society") who come here to be seen on the dance floor. U.S. bands can be relied upon for danceable, middle-of-the-road rock. Dress conservatively. Nightly 6 pm-2 am. $$. Credit cards. Grand Hyatt Erawan Hotel, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., phone 254-1234.

baan thai

A great place for the first-time visitor. Beautiful gardens outside a Thai-style house including a pond with monster catfish and carp. Inside, tables are sunk into the floor, the floor becomes your seat, and your feet drop into a comfortable space underneath. A Thai menu is served piping hot, and there's a floor show of Thai music and dancing on two stages. Beautiful traditional costumes illuminate these traditional, dramatic pieces. Daily 7:30-10 pm. Show starts at 9 pm. Reserve to secure the best seats. $$. Most major credit cards. Set back in Soi 32 next to the Rex Hotel on Sukhumvit, phone 258-5403.

cabbages and condoms

Great Thai food and a friendly atmosphere, despite the gimmicky decor and clientele that's exclusively tourists. It's run by the Population and Community Development Association, whose chief is known internationally for his innovative contraceptive and AIDS campaigns. The restaurant is decorated with condoms from all over the world. Dine inside or outdoors in a lovely garden. All profits go to population control and AIDS research. Reservations recommended in the evening. Daily 11 am-10 pm. $. Visa. Soi 12, off Sukhumvit, phone 252-7349.

khing khao

Here's a chance to try Chiang Mai and Lanna cuisine, if you're not heading up north from the city. Heavy on the pork sausage. Tuesday-Sunday 11:30 am-10:30 pm. $$. No credit cards. Sukhumvit Soi 22, immediately off Sukhumvit Road. Phone 259-5623.

na phra lan

The perfect place to reward yourself after a morning doing the Royal Palace and environs. It's an art cafe. The art on the walls and the artsy clientele come from nearby Silpakorn University. Basic, nicely presented Thai food. Monday-Saturday 10 am-10 pm. $. No credit cards. 18 Na Phra Lan Rd., phone 221-2312.

the spice market

In the Regent Hotel, informal, with a setting that looks like an old market scene. Renowned chefs serve up traditional Thai and regional fare. Daily 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 6:30-11 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 155 Ratchadamri Rd., phone 251-6127.

whole earth

Terrific Thai vegetarian fare with an Indian influence. There are a few meat and seafood entrees as well. Two locals: The smaller, cozier one is at 93/3 Soi Lan Suan, off Ploenchit Road, phone 252-5574. It's a stroll to a half-dozen live music bars. Much larger and more secluded is the branch at 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, phone 258-4900. If you've got children, choose this one: Since every item is cooked to order, the wait can be long, but the kids can play out in the garden. At both restaurants, you can sit on floor cushions, as in the old days (but it's not required). Both of these fall into the $$ range. Credit cards: MasterCard and Visa.

l'opera

Good Italian food in an unpretentious setting. Fresh seafood and produce, good wine selection and reasonable prices. A bit out of the way on the eastern edge of town, but worth the trip. Daily 11 am-2 pm and 6-11 pm. $$. Most major credit cards. 53 Sukhumvit, Soi 39, phone 258-5606.

le banyan

Bangkok's premier French restaurant offers both traditional and nouvelle cuisine in a lovely, colonial-style house with gardens. The wine list is astounding (and so are the prices). Dress up. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2 pm and 6:30-11 pm, Saturday and Sunday 6:30-11 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 59 Sukhumvit, Soi 8, phone 253-5556.

stanley's french restaurant

Near the center of town and the Imperial Hotel, Stanley's offers fine European dining. Eat on the terrace or inside in the air-conditioning. Lots of local movers and schmoozers at Sunday brunch. Tuesday-Sunday 11:30 am-2:30 pm and 6-10:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 20/20-21 Soi Ruamrudee, Ploenchit Road, phone 250-1613.

terrazzo

In the Sukhothai Hotel, in the southern part of the city, this is one of the finest Italian restaurants in Thailand. Supremely elegant, with wonderful service and homemade pastas. Extensive wine list. Dress up. Daily noon-2 pm and 6:30-11 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 13/3 Sathorn Tai Rd., phone 287-0222.

mayflower restaurant

At the Dusit Thani Hotel, the Mayflower serves highly praised Cantonese specialties in a fine colonial-style room decorated with Chinese antiques. Roast suckling pig is a house specialty. Vegetarian dishes are excellent. Dress code. Daily 11:30 am-2 pm and 6-10 pm. Reservations suggested. $$$. Most major credit cards. 946 Rama IV Rd., phone 236-0450.

tan dinh

New, but very ambitious. It's associated with the Vietnamese restaurant of the same name in Paris. Small but very rich menu that includes frog, goose and duck. Extensive, pricey wine list. Elegant decor. Daily 11 am-2:30 pm, 6-11 pm. $$$. Credit cards. Ruamrudee Village, 20/6-7 Soi Ruamrudee (off Ploenchit Road), phone 650-8986.

bukhara

Excellent Northern Indian dishes in a rustic setting with views of the Chao Phraya River. Tandoori specialties and live Indian music nightly except Mondays, 7-8:30 pm. You could live for a week in India for the price of a dinner here, but your meal is well worth every penny. Daily noon-2:30 pm and 7-11 pm. Reservations requested for dinner. $$$. Most major credit cards. Royal Orchid Sheraton, 2 Captain Bush Lane, phone 266-0022 or 266-0123.

shin daikoku

Every hotel has its obligatory Japanese restaurant; this is one of the best outside the hotel set. Shin Daikoku's renowned chef serves sashimi, sushi and teppanyaki-style dishes. Lots of private rooms. Daily 11 am-2:30 pm and 6-10:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. On the eastern edge of the city, past the Ambassador Hotel, at 32/8 Sukhumvit, Soi 19, phone 259-9980.

the ayutthaya princess

One of the dining highlights in Bangkok. Built to resemble a royal barge, this floating restaurant provides dinner cruises with traditional Thai culture shows. The food is great, and despite the large size of the boat (seats 170 persons), the service reflects the high standards of the boat's owner, the Shangri-La Hotel. Daily cruises depart at 7 pm, return at 9:30 pm. Dressy. $$$. Most major credit cards. 89 Wat Suan Phlu, Charoen Krung Road, phone 236-7777.

wit's oyster bar & restaurant

The only oyster bar and restaurant in town. Typical British cooking with the freshest ingredients. Besides oysters, expect steak and kidney pie, Stilton soup, spotted duck and fish and chips. Excellent collection of spirits. Open 11:30 am-10:30 pm. $$$. Most major credit cards. 20/10-11 Soi Rumrudee, Ploenchit Road, phone 252-1820.

bourbon street

Fun and boisterous, this restaurant serves Creole and Cajun dishes, Mexican food and home-style fare. Specialties include gumbo, jambalaya, tacos, chili and barbecued ribs and chicken. You can wear your grubby jeans, since it's in a frankly grubby karaoke-massage area. Daily 7 am-1 am. $. Most major credit cards. Washington Square, Sukhumvit, Soi 22, phone 259-0328.

cafe at the park

Thai and other cuisines served in a glass-enclosed corner of the Century Park Hotel. You feel like you're eating in an air-conditioned park. Try the lunch or dinner buffet. On Friday and Saturday nights, a large, fresh seafood selection is added. Open 24 hours. $$. Most major credit cards. Rajaprarop Road, phone 246-7800.

seafood market

You enter this restaurant through an active fish market and select your entree from dozens of large fish tanks. Next, you enter a small market area where a clerk helps you select salads and vegetables. Now, choose a bottle from the wine rack. Give instructions on how everything should be cooked to the cashier. Then sit at your table under the stars and wait for your meal to arrive. If you can't bear to look your dinner in the eye while it's still swimming, go straight to a table and order from a standard menu. $. 89 Soi Sukhumvit 24 (Kasem), Klongtoey, phone 661-1252 or 661-1253, fax 261-2073.

panthong seafood restaurant

Specializing in Thai food and seafood, this is another restaurant where you select your dinner as it swims in front of you. Thai dance and cultural shows are performed as you eat. Select an indoor table or one in their lovely outdoor garden. $. 133 Pan Rd. near Silom, phone 234-6687.

You can always get something to eat late at night at the Ambassador Hotel (Soi 11). The sidewalk restaurants that spring up every night but Wednesdays often run until 4 or 5 am. (Thai customers will insist you join their party.) Probably every luxury hotel and nearly every economy hotel runs a 24-hour coffee shop.

For a bit more class, try the Greenhouse Restaurant (open 24 hours) at the Landmark Hotel, 138 Sukhumvit, phone 254-0404, ext. 4105. The Narai Hotel boasts an excellent restaurant that's also open 24 hours. 222 Silom Rd., phone 237-0100.

old dutch cafe

A real breakfast treat for late risers and one of the best values in Bangkok. A gut-stuffing breakfast for 85 baht consists of three eggs, bacon, cheese, ham, turkey, sausage, french fries, rolls, orange juice and all the Dutch coffee you can drink. At night, try their famous cheese fondue with wine. Cozy and rustic, even though the remainder of this soi is dedicated to sex tourists. Open 10 am till late. 9/3-4 Sukhumvit, Soi 23 (just outside Soi Cowboy), phone 258-9234.

In the past few years, cybercafes proliferated in Bangkok, but since 1997 they've also been folding at a rapid clip. You can find a somewhat accurate listing of internet cafes in Thailand at Listed below are a few that look is if they may hang on.

If you just want to retrieve or send e-mail, try the price-competitive venues on Kaosan Road, haunt of the budget tourist. Rates start at about 3 baht per minute, or 150 baht per hour. (Elsewhere, expect to pay double.) If you need advice, there's only one option, however: Cyberia.

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